San Fermín y la moda
3 abr 2013
La moda también la encontramos en las fiestas tradicionales como San Fermín.
¿Qué sería de San Fermín sin esas imágenes de todos los años que muestran una marea blanca y roja realmente vistosa y llamativa? Faltan apenas tres días para que llegue San Fermín, lo tienes todo listo, las maletas preparadas, ya has quedado con tu grupo de amigos para no perderte ni un solo instante de la fiesta, pero.. ¿Qué te vas a poner? Es obligatorio por supuesto ir con el traje tradicional de pamplonica. El traje actualmente es variable, tanto hombres como mujeres tienen que ir vestidos completamente de blanco con pañuelo al cuello rojo y fajín rojo a la cintura. Las prendas siempre que sean blancas son variables, pueden ser camisas, camisetas, pantalón corto, pantalón largo o incluso faldas para las mujeres, pero, ¿de dónde viene esta tradición? Por qué es una obligación vestirse de esta manera concreta para acudir a San Fermín?
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Lo más curioso es que buscando información acerca del atuendo tradicional en San Fermín, nadie sabe por qué es así ni de dónde viene realmente. Lo cierto es que crea una marea humana inconfundible que le da esa seña de identidad y popularidad a la fiesta. Es imposible pensar en San Fermín y no pensar en el blanco y rojo típico, yo diría que la ropa es la gran protagonista y la gran seña de identidad de la fiesta.
La vestimenta típica de San Fermín comenzó a popularizarse a partir de 1960. Hay una teoría que atribuye el traje de pamplonica a los socios de la Peña La Veleta, una peña de los años 30 de origen obrero, según esta teoría, los miembros de esta peña utilizaban el traje como elemento identificador que los diferenciara de otras asociaciones. La utilización de la ropa blanca era por ser asequible para todos los bolsillos, y combinarlo con el color rojo del pañuelo y fajín por el toque de distinción que esto aportaba. Otros apuntan a que su origen proviene del atuendo de los carniceros que corrían el encierro de Santo Domingo antes de ir a vender la carne al mercado de Santo Domingo. Otras teorías asocian la vestimenta con los chistularis de Biarritz, los joteros o los pelotaris.
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El pañuelo como símbolo, podría representar el martirio de San Fermín en Amiens durante las persecuciones del siglo III, de hecho, muchos pañuelos llevan bordada la figura de San Fermín. El pañuelo se relaciona también con una epidemia de peste negra que hubo en la ciudad de Pamplona y que terminó con un tercio de la población: lo único efectivo para evitar el contagio fue colocar en el pecho de los enfermos un símbolo que representaba las cinco llagas de Cristo, lo que se asemeja mucho al pañuelo actual. Como curiosidad, antes del chupinazo la gente lleva el pañuelo atado en la mano, y durante las fiestas se lleva en el cuello, lo que indica la vigencia de la fiesta, aunque más de uno acaba con él en la cabeza.
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El fajín también rojo, normalmente lleva flecos a los lados y se coloca alrededor de la cintura. Algunos relacionan el color rojo del pañuelo y fajín simplemente para atraer la mirada de los toros.
Para completar nuestro look totalmente “sanferminero” es de recibo calzarse unas zapatillas de esparto blancas con cordones rojos cruzados alrededor de la pierna, que datan del año 1.929, cuando un alpargatero llamado Domingo Cirauqui las creó para que los miembros de su cuadrilla las llevaran en las fiestas de San Roque.
San Fermín es extremadamente popular fuera de nuestras fronteras, tanto es así que personalidades como Ernest Hemingway, con su novela “fiesta”, Bill Clinton, Ava Gardner, Orson Welles o Charlton Heston, que estuvieron en la fiesta in situ, han contribuido a popularizar los San Fermines en el extranjero. Desde aquí, animamos a la princesa Letizia y al príncipe Felipe a vestirse con el atuendo típico de San Fermín, lo cual no hemos podido ver nunca, para apoyar esta fiesta que es un emblema y representación de España a nivel internacional.
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